Twelve-point DIY inspection guide covering spring and fall. Know what to look for, when to call a pro, and how to catch problems before they become expensive.
Check each item and your progress saves automatically. Work through the relevant season, or do the full inspection twice a year.
What to look for:
Look for shingles that are cracked, curled at the edges, or missing entirely. Check around chimneys, vents, and the ridge — these areas take the most weather stress. From the ground, scan for dark patches or uneven color that might indicate damage.
What to do:
If you find 3+ damaged shingles in one area, or any large bare patches, call us. A few lifted shingles can often be re-secured; widespread damage may mean it's time to discuss repairs or replacement before the next storm hits.
What to look for:
Gutters full of leaves, twigs, or shingle granules signal the roof needs attention. Check that downspouts are clear and water flows away from the foundation — standing water near the foundation is a basement water problem waiting to happen.
What to do:
Remove debris by hand or with a garden hose flush. If gutters are saggy or pulling away from the fascia, that's a structural issue — call us to assess before the next heavy rain. We also install and repair gutter systems.
What to look for:
Chimney flashing should be continuous metal — look for gaps, rust, or sealant that's cracking or missing. Vent pipe collars (the rubber boots around pipes) should be intact with no cracks or separations. Skylights and dormers are other common flash points.
What to do:
Small gaps can sometimes be sealed from the outside with roof-appropriate sealant. Large gaps, rust, or any active leak at a flashing point needs professional repair. We re-flash and reseal these areas as part of our standard repair service.
What to look for:
Dark streaks on north-facing slopes or areas under tree cover are typically algae — common in Pennsylvania's humid summers. Moss holds water directly against shingles and is most damaging in freeze/thaw cycles. Watch for moss creeping up from the eaves especially.
What to do:
Light algae can be washed off with a garden hose from the ground — never pressure-wash. Moss requires a professional soft-wash treatment. If growth is extensive or pushing shingles up, call us. We also install zinc strips that prevent regrowth for years.
What to look for:
From inside the attic, check for: damp or moldy sheathing, condensation on the underside of the roof, damp insulation, or a musty smell. In summer, an improperly ventilated attic can reach 140°F+ — that heat cooks shingles from above. Look for soffit vents along the eaves and ridge vents along the peak.
What to do:
If ventilation is missing or blocked (often by old insulation packed against soffits), we can add or improve intake and exhaust vents. This is one of the best ROI improvements you can make — it extends shingle life significantly and lowers cooling bills.
What to look for:
After any major winter storm, do a quick visual check: dented or missing shingles, granule accumulation in gutters (shingle grit), any new gaps or sagging, and water stains on ceilings inside the home. Even if nothing looks urgent, document everything — insurance claims have deadlines.
What to do:
For any visible damage, call us before it gets worse. We do free storm damage inspections and can help you document findings for insurance. See our storm damage page →
What to look for:
Leaves, pine needles, and branches accumulating in valleys, behind chimneys, and against flat roof edges. Even a thin layer of debris holds moisture and promotes algae growth. Watch especially for debris that has piled up over the summer — it traps water as temperatures drop.
What to do:
Blow off debris from the ground with a leaf blower — never climb onto a wet or icy roof. If you have a flat roof, gently sweep debris off the surface. A clean roof sheds water properly going into winter.
What to look for:
Chimney crickets (the small peaked flashing behind the chimney that diverts water) should be intact. Step flashing — the overlapping L-shaped metal pieces — should be continuous with no gaps or rust spots. Mortar between bricks should not be crumbling or missing. Any separation here lets water in at the chimney, one of the most common leak points.
What to do:
If you see gaps or rust, get it sealed before freezing weather. A failing chimney cricket is one of the most damaging leaks we see in Lebanon and Lancaster County — it lets water in gradually and often isn't noticed until there's significant damage inside the home.
What to look for:
Ice dams form when heat from the attic melts snow, which refreezes at the cold roof edges, forming a dam that traps water behind it. Signs of ice dam risk: icicles forming along the eaves, ice build-up visible on the roof, water stains on upper-floor ceilings, or high heating bills (your attic is too warm). Homes with poor attic ventilation are most at risk.
What to do:
Improve attic ventilation (add ridge and soffit vents), seal air leaks from the living space into the attic, and add ice-and-water shield along the eaves during your next re-roof. If you've had ice dams before, call us — we can install heat cables as a temporary fix and recommend a permanent solution.
What to look for:
Note any branches that hang over the roof or touch the surface when the wind blows. Even small branches can grind against shingles in the wind and wear through the granules over a season. Fallen leaves on the roof that don't blow off easily indicate overhanging limbs that should be cut back. The rule of thumb: branches should be at least 6 feet from the roof surface.
What to do:
Hire a licensed arborist for anything requiring climbing — don't DIY tree work near your roof. We can point you to trusted arborists in the Lebanon and Lancaster County area. Keeping trees trimmed reduces roof maintenance and prevents storm damage from falling limbs.
What to look for:
Roof vents (the boxes on the roof surface for plumbing, HVAC, or bathroom exhausts) have rubber boots that seal to the shingles. These boots crack and dry out over time — usually within 8-12 years, even in Pennsylvania's climate. Look for: cracked or missing rubber flanges, gaps in the sealant around the base, or any sign of water staining on the vent housing itself.
What to do:
Vent boot replacement is a straightforward repair that's much cheaper than fixing an interior water stain. If your home is more than 8 years old and you've never had the vent boots inspected, call us to check and replace them before winter. The cost is low; the damage from a failing boot can be extensive.
What to look for:
If your roof is over 10 years old, or if you found any red flags during this checklist, it's time for a professional inspection. We look at areas that are impossible to check from the ground: the underside of the sheathing from inside the attic, the condition of the underlayment at edges, chimney crickets, and subtle storm damage patterns that can affect insurance claims.
What to do:
We offer free, no-obligation inspections — Tom personally assesses every roof. Get your free estimate → or call (717) 997-6566 to schedule. inspections typically take 30-45 minutes and you're under no obligation.
If you see any of these during your inspection, don't wait — schedule a free professional assessment.
Any visible dip or sag in the roofline means structural damage — don't wait.
Water spots on ceilings, walls, or in the attic = a leak that needs immediate attention.
Large gaps or torn shingles leave the underlayment exposed — rain gets in fast.
If gutters are full of shingle grit, the shingles are aging fast — maybe 2-3 years left.
Brown or yellow stains on walls or ceilings = water traveling from the roof above.
Hail or high wind damage may not be visible from the ground — get a professional check.
That's exactly what we're here for. Tom does a free, no-obligation inspection — you'll know exactly where you stand before spending a dollar.
Call (717) 997-6566Quick answers to the questions we hear most from Lancaster and Lebanon County homeowners.